MAIN AND DEPOT STREETS MEET, THERE IS A RESTAURANT THAT HAS QUIETLY REDEFINED WHAT DINING OUT CAN FEEL LIKE TO BE OUR OWN BOSSES AND CREATE OUR OWN VIBE. I THINK WAS DEFINITELY EXCITING. THE DOWNTOWN ...

Andrew Molen knew the damage to some of his five restaurants in Ludlow, Vt., would be severe even before he began the six-hour drive from the Hamptons on Monday afternoon to check on his properties.